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216 × 138 × 25 mm
288 pages
01 Mar 2011
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Dishing it Out In Search of the Restaurant Experience Robert Appelbaum

From the hamburger haven to the temple of gastronomy, the restaurant is a fixture of modern life. But why is that so? What needs has the restaurant come to satisfy, and what needs has it come to impose upon the experience of the modern world? In Dishing It Out, Robert Appelbaum travels around America and Europe and through the annals of literature and history to explore the social meaning of the restaurant – and to discover what we ought to be asking of the restaurant experience today.

Since its founding in pre-Revolutionary France, the restaurant has always inspired contradictory feelings and served contradictory purposes. It has stood for a kind of liberation: the embrace of pleasure and sociability for their own sake. But it has also encouraged narcissistic consumerism at the cost of the exploitation of restaurant workers, and the self-deception of restaurant-goers. Drawing on the work of such writers as Grimod de la Reynière, Jean-Paul Sartre, Isak Dinesen and M.F.K. Fisher, and sampling fare from macaroni cheese in workaday London to oysters and sausages in seaside France, Appelbaum argues that though restaurants are inherently problematic as social institutions, they are characteristic of who and what we are. They are expressions of what we need as human beings. And for that reason, though they contribute to inequality they can also be used to promote the interests of cultural democracy.

A unique rethinking of the restaurant experience, at once entertaining and learned, Dishing it Out is an important contribution to our knowledge of food, literature, history and society.

‘Appelbaum, it becomes apparent, loves to eat out, and has a fun and self-deprecating writing style when recounting his experiences . . . This absorbing book is sure to inform your next visit to a restaurant.’ — Scotland on Sunday

‘In this remarkable book which mixes high social theory with gonzo journalism, literary criticism with Proustian memoir Robert Appelbaum eats (and thinks and writes) his way around the restaurants of Europe and America in search of an ideal of social democracy: a restaurant for the rest of us.’ — Times Higher Education

‘a serious examination of the restaurant but also a wildly funny and human romp through restaurant culture high and low . . . Appelbaums recounting of visits to restaurants while researching the book and memories of restaurants past are among the most evocative and compelling reviews I have read.’ — Sydney Morning Herald

Dishing It Out is a useful addition to the literature of the restaurant experience . . . the book displays a remarkable grasp of food writing and the insights available from that oeuvre that is impressive. This book could be a useful addition to the shelf of both the enquiring eater and the more serious food scholar.’ — Hospitality & Society

‘To be paid for eating magnificent meals puts one among the most privileged creatures on the planet, along with barons and billionaires. Robert Appelbaums absorbing history of this enviable breed will be hungrily consumed by all tasteful readers.’ — Terry Eagleton

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Robert Appelbaum is a senior lecturer in Renaissance studies in the Department of English and Creative Writing at Lancaster University and Professor of English Literature at Uppsala University, and has published on topics as varied as seventeenth-century utopias and the freeway culture of California. His previous book on food and culture, Aguecheeks Beef, Belchs Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections: Literature, Culture, and Food among the Early Moderns, won the the 2007 Roland H. Bainton Prize.


1. Restaurants for the Rest of Us
2. Grimod de la Reynière: Eating and Writing
3. Nausea
4. Her Majesty the Consumer
5. Dining Out in Paris and London
6. The Production of Production: Novelists and Cooks
7. Culture, Civilization and Resistance

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